May 2nd 2025
The Pattern Dilemma
Have you ever stood in front of an intimidating wall of patterns? All sorts of styles and sizes hanging side by side. You may have gotton a headache from searching so long an hard for the one that was right for you! Finding the pattern that’s right for you may be difficult, but the aftermath can be just as confusing.
What fabric should I use? How do I make the proper adjustments for attaining proper sizing? It all can be quite frustrating!
Here at Beth’s Creations we carry 4 different styles of patterns created for you by Mennonite women who cracked the code of pattern mystery. We’ve asked them a few questions about their patterns and how to be ‘in the know’ as we sew.
Sugar & Spice Patterns
Jalissa Martin, the creator of these patterns has enjoyed sewing since she was a young girl. Ever ready to try something new, she took up the challenge to fit her young daughter with a dress pattern. Her endeavors ended up in a line a patterns for babies and toddlers.
The Sugar & Spice patterns are based off the fit of Old Navy style dresses, with longer skirts for modesty. They are available in sizes 0 -12 mon. & 1-3T.
What size should I choose?
When choosing a size, it measures closely with their age. When in doubt, size up! Your baby will only be growing.
What fabric types work best with this pattern?
The pattern is intended for knits, as it is a pullover dress. However, to change it to a zippered dress with non-knit material, you can size up 1 size and add ½" to the back bodice and skirt for the zipper allowance, and cut the neck ½" higher and add a facing instead of the band.
Sew EZ Patterns
Ruth Zimmerman founded the Sew EZ Patterns for Girls in 2017 by request from her daughter - in - law.
Her patterns run from sizes 1 - 10 and are especially designed for fabrics that are woven/poly types.
What size should I choose?
Choose the size that matches closest to the child's largest measurement, which is usually the chest. The waist can be easier to increase than the chest, as the chest area includes the armhole.
If my size falls between 2 sizes should I size up or down?
If your size falls between two measurements, then sizing up would be your best option.
What fabric types work best with the Sew EZ patterns?
These patterns were created using woven cotton/polyester and other fabric with slight stretch.
If using stretch type fabric such as spandex and knits, take 3/8" off front bodice and back bodice, at the top of the armhole and taper to nothing at the armhole curve and remove 3/8" on the side seam from underarm to the waist.
The sleeve can be made narrower by dividing the pattern into 3 from top to hem and over lapping by the amount you need to fit the armhole and bicep.
Nita Patterns
Lanita‘s hobby turned into a job the year of 2021 when she started her pattern business. Currently she has 3 different patterns for girls, a maternity pattern, and 3 styles of patterns for women, but she’s always pursuing something new so stay tuned for her latest creations!
What size should I choose?
To choose a size for the women’s patterns, the bust measurement is most important. Measure around the fullest part of the bust, keeping the measuring tape level but not too snug. If in between sizes, size up. In the size chart, you can see the bust measurement followed by the cup size to help you choose. The dress front with the full bust adjustment has side darts and more length.
The girls’ patterns also go by the chest size, but the shoulder width is an important measurement as well. Measure from the ball of one shoulder, across the back of the neck to the other shoulder. If the shoulder measurement and chest measurement fall in different sizes, choose the larger of the 2 sizes.
If my size falls between 2 sizes should I size up or down?
The patterns come in multi-size packs, giving you several options if your measurements fall between sizes. If you have a small bust but wide shoulders, you may want to go with a larger size than your bust measurement, so that the shoulders and armhole fit better.
There is a wide waist size marked on the patterns with a dotted line. If your waist varies from the measurements, you can size it up or down a size. For a larger hip measurement, size up the skirt and use darts, pleats, or gathers to fit it to the waist.
The girls’ patterns also include a wide waist size. The narrow chest adjustment is for those who have wide shoulders but have folds of extra fabric at the front armhole.
How do I fit the pattern to my measurements?
If the shoulder is too wide or too narrow, change that on the outer edge of the shoulder, at the armhole. The dress front and back also have lines for adjusting the waist length. You can cut and spread the patterns for more length, or overlap for a shorter waist.
What fabric types work best with the Nita patterns?
These patterns are only designed for knits with 40% or more horizontal stretch. The envelopes include a stretch guide. I do not recommend using these patterns for wovens (non-stretch), as the proportions will not be correct. The only exception to that is the maternity patterns, which have adequate ease for wovens, and the new Bree pattern for wovens.
Sew Basic Patterns
Michelle is a homemaker, mom, and grandma with a love for all things sewing. She started making patterns in 2015 and since then has created a line of basic women and girls patterns with a few add-ons available in digital form.
Her two newest patterns include a basic baby dress pattern, and a girl’s slim dress pattern.
What size should I choose?
The Sew Basic patterns are designed by chest/bust measurement, except for the baby sizes. The chest/bust measurement is taken around the fullest part of the bust. The women’s sizes are sized according to the full bust measurement, but the exact size needed may vary according to the build of a person. For example: a full busted woman may need to size down, whereas a small busted woman may need to size up. Fabric type being used is also a factor to keep in mind when choosing size.
If my size falls between 2 sizes should I size up or down?
There is no solid answer for this question. As mentioned above, sizing varies with women. Our patterns are designed with plenty of ease, so most times it is best to size down – especially if you are “busty”, and most times it’s best to size down 2 sizes when using knit fabric, especially knit with lots of stretch.
How do I fit the pattern to my measurements?
There is a basic pattern adjustment sheet included with the Sew Basic women’s patterns. This can be used to make simple adjustments to the pattern. As with any standard pattern, most times small adjustments will need to be made to the pattern. I recommend getting a custom pattern made for yourself if you want a pattern free of adjustments – and even then, your dresses will fit differently with varying fabric types.
What fabric types work best with the Sew Basic patterns?
Sew Basic patterns were designed for woven fabric, with the exception of the patterns specifically marked as “knit patterns”. I recommend sizing down 1-2 sizes when using knit fabric with our non-knit patterns– sizing down will vary with what type of knit fabric is being used. I personally use the same dress pattern for all fabric types, making adjustments as needed.
Here is a tutorial I compiled of some of my personal tips for sewing knit fabric: https://www.sewbasicdresses.com/s/stories/tipsforsewingknitfabric.
Our patterns that are specifically designed for knit fabric were designed for knit fabric with liberal stretch. For example, I do not recommend the patterns with a neckband for Liverpool and Swiss dot fabric types since they have little stretch, even though it is knit fabric. Another thing to keep in mind when making pullover dresses (specifically pullovers without a neckband) is that a fabric type that works as a pullover dress for an adult may not work for a baby or child since their head to body ratio is much different than an adult.
Note from Michelle:
As with any pattern, be mindful of suggested seam allowances. A dress will not turn out with a proper fit if the seams aren't sewn as designed. I often get asked why my patterns are designed with 5/8" seam allowances. The answer is simple - because the standard seam allowance in sewing is considered 5/8".
In conclusion:
This concludes the Pattern Dilemma saga. We would like to express our thanks to, Jalissa, Ruth, Lanita, and Michelle for sharing their tips learned over the years. It is our hope that this helps get you on the way to pattern satisfaction! Happy sewing!
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